Sew Miss Oz

Pattern Picture:

Project Photo:

The dress with the jacket on.

Pattern Rating:

I would say overall the pattern is easy enough for an advanced beginner. For me the dress would have been easier except I decided it needed a lining, therefore adding items that were not included in any of the instructions. The jacket instructions were very easy and simple.

Pattern Description:

From Simplicity’s Hannah Montana Collection - Girl or Girl Plus Cropped Jacket, Cropped Pants, Sleeveless Dress, Mini Dress or Tunic

Pattern Sizing/Sizing Used:

I made a size 12 1/2 straight out of the package with no alterations. I decided on this size by comparing the finished sizes with my dd’s actual sizes. If I make the dress again (before she changes sizes) I would make the full tummy alteration with just a smidge of extra room for her. This size turned out perfect for her, any larger size would have made the armholes too deep on the dress. If I had made the size the pattern had suggested the dress would have been too large.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

I think it is a close resemblance of the pattern picture. Of course, the pattern picture does not reflect the items on any plus size little girls.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

The instructions were decent, typical instructions for Simplicity on these types of patterns. It is imperative that all dots are transferred with the dress on this pattern to match up the tie, bodice front tie piece, and the yoke pieces.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I didn’t have really any dislikes about the pattern. The jacket is lined per the pattern for the back and front pieces. I added lining to the ruffled sleeve pieces because I thought it would look more finished on the sleeves. After all the work to line the rest of the jacket lining this portion of the sleeve that would easily be visible only made sense.

Fabric & Notions Used:

The dress is made from a top layer of 100% rayon (very fine, thin rayon), along with lime green satin, both purchased from Fashion Fabrics Club. The black dotted 100% rayon turned out thinner then I had imagined when I ordered it, therefore I felt it needed a lining. I used a black silk weight powder dry knit from Malden Mills. The jacket is lightweight cotton twill with lycra, lined with a light lime green stretch lining again both from Fashion Fabric Club. This is one of the things I like about Fashion Fabrics Club, putting items together, matching fabrics up to the pattern, doing it all at one time at one place! I actually sit with my Paint/Photo program open laying the pictures of the fabrics together, matching them up, deciding what goes where. This works most of the time, occasionally the colors from the fabrics will be slightly off.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:

On the dress, I made two alterations and/or design changes. As mentioned previously I opted to line the dress. The lining is a repeat of the dress, attached at the armhole, the neckline (yoke), and the bodice tie front. The lining side seams and hem are separate from the dress, giving the feeling of two dresses, one laid inside the other. The second design change I made was with the armholes, which since I lined the dress I could have even done differently than I did. The pattern uses purchased bias binding on the armholes, putting the binding on the inside of the dress. I decided it would give me a chance to add that punch of lime green just a little more! I cut bias pieces from the lime green satin scraps, bound the armholes, flipping the binding to the outside of the dress for visibility. I personally found problems with the yoke and the pattern instructions. The directions have you flip the second (inside) layer of the yoke to the inside, press up bottom hem allowance, then stitch from the outside (top stitching) catching the backside yoke as stitching. I believe part of my issue was that darn satin! It was entirely too slippery to complete as the instructions suggested. I trimmed the hem allowance with pinking shears, pressed up, then I hand stitched the yoke inside down (together). I ended up doing more hand stitching on this dress then I’ve done in a long time. I also hemmed the rayon fabric (top fabric) of the dress by hand as I felt if gave a better appearance then a machine stitch.

On the jacket, the only change I made was to add the lining to the ruffled sleeve portion of the jacket.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

This is another Simplicity Girls Plus pattern I would definitely recommend. Technically, I finished the dress within a day, except I decided to hand stitch the hem. The jacket took even less time, with the only hand sewing being the buttons we had chosen.

Tips:

This definitely needs a fine fabric with a nice drape to give all the front gathers a nice fall instead of a poof. In other words, save the cotton unless it is a fine, thin cotton like a batiste. Use a nice thin interfacing in the yoke, I opted to do a sew in interfacing to make sure I received no bubbling under my satin.

Conclusion:

I am saving this pattern, as I see this might be made again next summer! My dd loves the dress, seems to think it is so much like RTW complete with the lining.

Here is a picture of the back, showing with the jacket on.

The dress without the jacket from the front.

The dress without the jacket from the back.

So many family things going on right now, getting kiddos ready to start school (next week!), and getting myself ready the 25^th of this month! I will guarantee that once I start school my sewing really diminishes since free time becomes so scarce. I am trying to finish the projects I have cut out from my last post.

Completed is the black/lime green/baby blue outfit made from Simplicity 3515 . The outfit is in the wash to clean up all my markings, as soon as it washed I’ll get a picture of it on T, and do a complete review here and at Pattern Review.

Almost done is the black/fuchsia outfit made with Simplicity 2944. The dress is complete; the vest is on the sewing machine. I should have this done in just a few hours of dedicated time!

While I was sewing, I have been listening to books on my MP3 player. I had wanted to try this for a longtime, but the house arrangement made it hard to accomplish. Now that we have re-arranged a few things, and I bought dedicated speakers in my sewing area, I can plug my MP3 player into the speakers and listen while I sew. I listened to John Grisham’s book The Summons, then I listened to James Patterson’s book Honeymoon, and am presently listening to Mary Higgins Clark’s book No Place Like Home. The Mary Higgins Clark book is much bigger obviously, as it had 9 CD’s compared to the 5 & 6 of the other books. I like the unabridged books, so it is word for word as if reading the book. I am really enjoying listening to the books! I so miss reading, that putting two my favorite pastimes together is wonderful. I bought these books a couple of years ago, just never got it worked out to really listen to them. I hated having earphones in while I was sewing as they kept getting in the way! I’ve been looking at some sites that allow you do download books for your MP3 player or computer, so I can keep listening to them! I say that now, but once school gets started I always have so much to read and reading that isn’t on any audio formats :cry: spoiled huh?

In a few days I’ll update my completed projects with pictures!

I promised to show my fabric purchases and my sewing agenda. Maybe if I actually show what I am committing to I will stick to the plan!

Here is Simplicity 3546 to make for T. The main part of the dress will be the rayon fabric on the right, with the red rayon/poly blend as the accent color. I am a little disappointed in the colors of the fabric, the red turned out in person a little more orange red then I anticipated from the monitor. Since the red is more orange red than blue red, it isn’t quite the perfect match I wanted. I can be anal about that perfect color match, but shopping online has made me curtail the anal side of it. If I could shop in real person for the types of fabric, I would love it!

Another one up is Simplicity 3515. The black polka dot was listed as rayon at Fashion Fabric Club, but I question that it might have some polyester. The fabric is more like a sheer polyester fabric, nothing what I thought it would be. Luckily, I have some silk weight powder dry in black and white that will work as a lining to help with the sheer aspect of the fabric. The black dotty fabric is for the main portion of the dress, with the bright green satin for the trim of the dress. In the lower left corner is a light blue twill for the jacket, coordinating with the light green for the lining of the jacket.

My other sewing project is Simplicity 2944. The dress will be the black with the white & pink flowers. This knit is the “ITY” knits from Fashion Fabric Club. This knit was also a disappointment, as it is very thin, meaning almost sheer thin. After buying these types of knits from Gorgeous Fabrics previously this knit is just sad. I just couldn’t find anything kid cute at Gorgeous Fabrics. Luckily, like the other fabric I will line this with my white silk weight powder dry. On the left of the picture is a nice piece of fuchsia linen for the jacket. The linen piece of fabric I am pleased with.

These two fabrics I just bought because I liked them and I never seem to have enough knits. The knits in my stash always are sewn up first, possibly because they are so quick and easy to put together. The left is a nice jersey knit that I’m pleased with, the right is another “ITY” knit. This “ITY” knit isn’t as bad as the black/fuchsia knit. This knit appears to have a little more beef to it than the other does.

I am glad I purchased the fabrics for T, and generally, I like most of my fabrics from Fashion Fabric Club. It just seems I always have a couple of pieces from Fashion Fabric Club that either is the weight, type, and/or color that it was represented as. I am assuming this is the price I pay for the cheaper place.

I am excited to sew these patterns! I flat checked the finished measurements with T’s measurements, and was shockingly surprised that there were no alterations. Either the pattern companies have finally understood a plus kid has a larger waist area comparatively to their bust and hips versus the regular girls; or T has slimmed enough through the waist that an alteration is unnecessary. I have Simplicity 3546 cut out and ready to sew, now I just have the other two patterns to cut out and prep. I find I enjoy cutting several items out then spending time simply sewing!

I will have to see how much sewing and/or cutting out I get done in the next few days. I have house items to catch up on after all the work on the house! My garden needs me, the yard needs mowing, and T has a friend spending the night tonight! Therefore, breath with me, I think I need some Zen habits!

For whatever reasons I have decided I would like some aprons, maybe it is that whole June Cleaver thing. Actually, I like the idea of wearing an apron keeping my clothing clean when I need to cook, especially when it is something like getting a meal together for the Crockpot. In my search for a good pattern for myself, I started with this one from Simplicity.

Pattern Picture:

Project Photo:

This is the first apron I made from this pattern.

Pattern Rating:

I found the pattern very easy to put together, along with being very quick.

Pattern Description:

Child and Misses Vintage Apron

Pattern Sizing/Sizing Used:

All sizes; A one-size fits all

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Besides the different fabrics used and lack of my button additions, yes I think the finished product looks like the pattern photo.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Actually, the instructions were very good. I only had two problems with the instructions. My first problem came with putting the right side to the wrong side when sewing, for whatever reason I just was dyslexic every time I read that instruction. When I made the apron, I wanted to do the right-to-right sides, which caused the ripper to come out once! The other problem is the way the instructions have you attach the shoulder/neck pieces to the rest of the apron.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I like the design of the apron, giving a chance for fabric coordination. I also like the look of the apron. I enjoyed the fact there was no hemming for this apron, all the edges are incased within the production of the apron; I was either sewing or flipping edges to the inside, topstitching, or folding and ironing the edges in than topstitching. My only dislike was the way I was to attach the shoulder/neck pieces. After incasing all the edges on this apron, on the shoulder/neck pieces they simply have you sewing / attaching it to the main pieces, which would leave raw edges on the backside for this attachment only. I opted to sew the pieces together except where they would attach. On the edges where it would be attached I folded and ironed the seam allowances down inside. I then sandwiched the edges of the apron into the two layers of shoulder/neck pieces, topstitched the pieces to the rest of the apron.

Fabric & Notions Used:

100% cotton fabric. The first one (purple & white) I made from cotton from JoAnn’s. The second one I made from 100% cotton fabric from Wal-Mart.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:

No alteration and/or design changes made.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I did sew it again. My mother-in-law seen the purple/white apron as I finished, she absolutely loved it. She really wanted an apron, stating it had been years since she owned one, that she use to always wear them. I guess an apron is not an item easily found in stores anymore. As a surprise gift for my mother-in-law, I made this one:

Tips:

No real tips on this pattern; this is an easy pattern to put together in a matter of a few short hours.

Conclusion:

Although I really like this apron pattern I am interested in trying another one I picked up too, Simplicity 3544, which is a Vintage Retro pattern. Now I just need to find the right fabric to go with this apron pattern.

I thought it was way past time to write a review for this pattern, I realized I have made this pattern for my dh 5 times prior to making it this time.

Pattern Picture:

Project Photo:

This is the most recent shirt finished from the pattern. This shirt I finished within the last few days.

Pattern Rating:

This pattern is not easy, but produces good results. As I have increased my sewing knowledge, I realize this is not the really a tailored shirt, and have not decided which pattern to try next. I do recommend this as a great stepping-stone for learning to make men’s shirts. The one thing about Kwik Sew is their fabulous directions that enable one to learn!

Pattern Description:

Men’s dress shirts have a left front tab, double yoke, a collar with a collar stand, patch pocket and a shirt-tail hemline. View A has long sleeves with cuffs and sleeve plackets. View B has short hemmed sleeves.

Pattern Sizing/Sizing Used:

Men’s S-M-L-XL-XXL ; Neck 14 1/2 to 18 1/2 ; I used an XL with a 17 1/2 neck size.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

I think it usually does, much depends on the fabric choices.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

One of the most wonderful things about Kwik Sew patterns is their instructions. Some items seam confusing, but as I just followed the directions I was able to understand what I was accomplishing.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I like the pattern, if I did not I wouldn’t have made it so many times. After making the pattern several times though I now would like something a little better fitted. As you notice in the picture the yoke falls off the shoulder instead on the shoulder.

Fabric & Notions Used:

This time I used a cotton shirting fabric I believe I purchased a couple of years ago from Ressy’s Coop. I have used cotton shirting, cotton poplin, and good old-fashioned flannel in prior adaptations of this shirt pattern. Here is a quick picture of the other shirts I have made with this pattern.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:

So far, the only alteration I have made to this pattern was to length the sleeves for my dh’s long arms.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I would recommend this to anyone interested in trying the sewing techniques into men’s apparel. This is a great starting point for men’s dress shirts. As far as sewing this pattern again, well you can see how many times I’ve made it!

Tips:

The biggest tip I can say is to take plenty of time on this. With all the details, all the topstitching, this shirt takes several hours to complete. The good thing is after you have made it once or twice it goes together much faster!

Conclusion

This is a decent pattern for a man’s’ dress shirt with excellent directions! My dh actually loves all these shirts I made him, by just giving him the extra length in the sleeves he needed made him feel it was tailored. I have another shirt cut out for him now; I have also bought a Simplicity dress shirt pattern I would like to compare this too.

Pattern Picture:

Project Photo:

Dress with Jacket

Dress Only

Pattern Rating:

I personally thought the outfit was an easy put together, it would probably be classified more of an intermediate with the jacket.

Pattern Description:

Girls or Girls Plus Dress, Mini Dress, Tunic, Top, Jackets and Scarf: Hannah Montana Collection

Pattern Sizing/Sizing Used:

Pattern Sized for Girls 7-14, and Girls Plus Size 8 1/2 to 16 1/2. For plus sized girls’ the Simplicity pattern lines are the best! I love the sizing, the added room in the waist, etc. I actually made a 10 1/2 in this for my dd according to the finished garment measurements. Even with a 10 1/2 the additional I needed to add to the tummy for the front was so minimal I really enjoyed it. For me the sizing on this made it almost a straight out of the package!

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

I think it looks similar, different fabric and all. They show the tunic with the jacket, where I made the dress with the jacket.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

The directions were fine for me to understand. I did a few things different not suggested in the instructions, like using a binding for the inside edges of the jacket to give it a more finished look, same with the inside edges of the dress.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I really don’t have any dislikes with this pattern so far. I think I may have to make the outfit again, at least maybe the dress as a top with different fabrics. I also like the inset piece is a separate entire piece within the dress, using ribbon or twill tape to attach at the shoulder seams.

Fabric & Notions Used:

The main fabric is a rayon purchased last summer at Vogue Fabrics, the navy blue is also from Vogue Fabrics, but I don’t remember the fabric info.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:

Almost none! I did not alter the little jacket, the dress I added a smidge on the front for my dd’s full tummy at the waist area.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I will most definitely sew this again! It is a cute little dress; the style looks fabulous on my dd.

Tips:

When making this stay with a lightweight fabric, something drapey and what I consider airy, it makes the dress flow nicely. Check your sizing against the actually finished garment measurements; I actually used a size smaller than I usually do on this garment.

Conclusion

Cute, fashionable out fit for plus sized girls’.

Pattern Picture:

Project Photo:

Pattern Rating:

Good wardrobe builder, easy to sew

Pattern Description:

Girls’ Purse, Skirt, and Knit Tops

Pattern Sizing/Sizing Used:

Pattern is girls’ plus size 8 1/2 to 16 1/2, I made a size 10 1/2 on the top adjusted, made a size 14 1/2 on the skirt also altered.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

It mostly looks like the pattern photo; there are the changes I made on purpose though.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Actually, the instructions were fine, personally I didn’t follow the instructions that much, this was so easy peasy to do within a couple of hours

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

DD liked the style of this pattern, I like how easy it was to put together. I also like the fit on this with hardly any alterations.

Fabric & Notions Used:

The top I used a 100% cotton interlock (hence the fading on the top, I believe some how it was washed with some bleach), the skirt is 100% cotton twill, I also included some hot fix jewels on the top. The knit interlock was from Hancock’s, the cotton twill was from Fashion Fabric Club; both bought last summer.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:

On the top I altered 2 items; 1) I slashed & spread the front to increase the waist/tummy area for my dd 2) I lengthened the top to an appropriate length for my dd, to cover the tummy even with arms raised high. On the skirt I made a larger size, altering for the waist to be elastic instead of zipper and faced. Here is the inside of the skirt waist; you can see I used a coordinating broadcloth fabric on the inside. I felt that too much of the twill fabric would be too heavy on the skirt and waist.

I also like to adjust the skirts to sit on my dd’s tilted hips/waist, the push down style she likes. This is easiest to do with this elastic waist, besides trying to fit the plus sized girl with a faced / zipper waist just doesn’t sound like fun. I add the elastic waist at the very end. I have dd try on the skirt; we cut a piece of elastic the correct length, then safety pin the elastic into a circle. We decide on the best placement of the elastic, her for the waist, and me the hemline on her. Once we have the placement where we both like it, I chalk the top of the elastic on the outside of the skirt. When she takes off the skirt I know where the top of the elastic needs to line up too. This works pretty well, is mathematical but is quick for us.

I also did a quick hem, which in turn is no hem on this skirt. DD liked the serged look on many of the RTW skirts so that is what we went with on this one.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I would most definitely sew this again! The top is such a perfect fit with such little slash/spread tummy alteration. I really needed a TNT little knit shirt pattern for dd and I think this is it!

Tips:

I don’t have any additional tips on this besides what I’ve already shown. I did the knit with the sewing machine instead of the serger; I used a small zigzag (0.5 width, 3.0 length) using wooly nylon in the bobbin. I used a twin needle for the sleeve and bodice hems on the top. It is simply my preference to use the sewing machine on the knits, and wooly nylon in the bobbin. I have used my serger on knit many times, but I feel like I have more control with the sewing machine.

Conclusion:

Simply cute and easy to sew little outfit. I actually had enough fabric to make the little purse too in the twill fabric, which DD loves.

Pattern Picture:

Project Photo:

Pattern Rating:

According to Butterick, this is an easy pattern. I would also say it is an easy pattern.

Pattern Description:

Girls’ a-line dress, above mid-knee has elastic/partial drawstring neck, front slit/raised waist, short sleeves with elastic hem, back zipper, narrow hem. A) flounce A/B) contrast over-dress

Pattern Sizing/Sizing Used:

This pattern is plus-sized girl’s 8 1/2 to 16 1/2 ; I made an altered size 14 1/2

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

It somewhat does, with the plus size girls’ the waist fitting is less and/or should be on my dd and is with my alteration.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

The instructions were easy to follow, really had no questions of what they wanted done.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I have a couple of issues with this pattern. 1) has an elastic neckline would you need a zipper too? I really thought this was overkill and omitted it from my version 2) that the finished waist measurement on this was so small for a plus size girl 3) the way they want you to complete the elastic in the neck and the tie is impossible as written 4) since this is the over-dress suggested in a sheer fabric why not include some better instructions for sewing on sheer fabric (a few French seams).

Fabric & Notions Used:

I used a polyester sheer georgette, navy with white polka dots, from Vogue Fabrics; A solid navy lightweight polyester for the under-dress.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:

The main alteration was to increase the waist/tummy area on only the front of the dress. My plus size dd has a full tummy, therefore needs the extra through that area. I used my typical slash/spread the front pieces. This means I had to attach the bodice pattern piece to the skirt pattern piece. I than measured the waist of the pattern front piece, along with the area 2 inches below the waist (my dd’s fullest tummy area); I compared the finished front measurements to dd’s actual front measurements. I then added the extra I would need to the fullest part of her tummy to maintain the ease of the original dress. This slash & spread method maintains the added fabric through the bodice then into the skirt. Once I have added the extra needed I separate the bodice & the skirt pattern pieces as the original pattern.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I might sew it again, but doubt it. This is not the best-looking dress on my plus size dd. I think the way the dress is made and cut is just not a style that looks good on the plus size girl. I also think the neckline is a little wide.

Tips:

Before sewing the casing on the neckline read carefully! I really do not like how Butterick did the neckline. The way it reads the elastic should run to a shoulder point on the neck, and then you run the tie in? I really don’t like the neckline the way they did it. I ran elastic through the entire neckline, and then only attached the ties to the front portion.

Conclusion

DD says she likes the dress, but I noticed it is not the first one she will put on. I should probably let this pattern go now, as I doubt I would make it again. It just is not a design/style that looks the best on my dd.

Pattern Info:

Jalie 2327

Pattern Picture:

Project Photo:

Pattern Rating:

Say super easy! These men’s underwear are simply a breeze to put together.

Pattern Description:

Men’s briefs, trunks and thong Men’s briefs, trunks and thong

Pattern Sizing/Sizing Used:

Pattern contains boys’ 2 (hip 22″) thru men’s 52 (hip 53″); I made size z which is equivalent to a size 42″.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

I think they look very much like the pattern envelope, but I didn’t make any changes from the original pattern.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

The instructions are sparse on this pattern, but there are also very few pieces to put together. Mostly the diagrams show the best instructions. The elastic requirements and application were the least discussed.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I like the overall design, which is similar to DH,’s higher end hip briefs. The double layer pocket/pouch on the front is not something you find on the lower end (Wal-Mart) hip briefs.

Fabric & Notions Used:

The pattern wasn’t exactly specific as to the type of elastic required for the waist & legs, therefore I checked a pair of hubby’s RTW. I found RTW used a 3/8″ elastic on the legs and 3/4″ elastic on the waist. I decided to use my prior swimsuit construction as background, and use knit elastics. I applied the elastic in the same method as making a swimsuit, quarter making, using a 3-step zigzag on first application, than flipping elastic over and using a regular zigzag. I also used wooly nylon thread hand wound on my bobbin for all elastic application, including the actual construction of the underwear.

I used a silk weight powder dry for the two pairs, and then used lightweight cotton/lycra for the other four pairs. I didn’t have the exact color of wooly nylon to match the material, but since these are underwear, I don’t think anyone will inspect that closely.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:

On the first pair hubby felt they needed to be raised just a tad in the back. I adjusted the center back up 1 inch, then drawing a new line from the hip seam to the center back. According to hubby that was a perfect fix aren’t alterations wonderful for men

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I’m sure I’ll be sewing these again, probably very soon. All together I have 6 pair I’ve made this week, but that isn’t quite enough for my washing and his wearing so I’ll be making a few more pair within the next few weeks. Hubby says the powder dry are the most comfortable in this summer heat, but felt the cotton/lycra would be great in the winter. So now, I’ll have to find more powder dry. I would definitely recommend at least the hip briefs in this pattern, very comparable to RTW.

Tips:

My only tips is the regarding the elastic. As I noted a 3/4″ elastic on the waist is what you’ll find on RTW. I also shortened the elastic by 1 to 1 1/2 inches from what the pattern suggested.

Conclusion

These will be made again several times over! Since hubby likes this style of underwear but in our area I’m finding them hard to find within the stores I see more in my future sewing plans.