Simplicity 3515
Pattern Picture:
Project Photo:
The dress with the jacket on.
Pattern Rating:
I would say overall the pattern is easy enough for an advanced beginner. For me the dress would have been easier except I decided it needed a lining, therefore adding items that were not included in any of the instructions. The jacket instructions were very easy and simple.
Pattern Description:
From Simplicity’s Hannah Montana Collection - Girl or Girl Plus Cropped Jacket, Cropped Pants, Sleeveless Dress, Mini Dress or Tunic
Pattern Sizing/Sizing Used:
I made a size 12 1/2 straight out of the package with no alterations. I decided on this size by comparing the finished sizes with my dd’s actual sizes. If I make the dress again (before she changes sizes) I would make the full tummy alteration with just a smidge of extra room for her. This size turned out perfect for her, any larger size would have made the armholes too deep on the dress. If I had made the size the pattern had suggested the dress would have been too large.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
I think it is a close resemblance of the pattern picture. Of course, the pattern picture does not reflect the items on any plus size little girls.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
The instructions were decent, typical instructions for Simplicity on these types of patterns. It is imperative that all dots are transferred with the dress on this pattern to match up the tie, bodice front tie piece, and the yoke pieces.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I didn’t have really any dislikes about the pattern. The jacket is lined per the pattern for the back and front pieces. I added lining to the ruffled sleeve pieces because I thought it would look more finished on the sleeves. After all the work to line the rest of the jacket lining this portion of the sleeve that would easily be visible only made sense.
Fabric & Notions Used:
The dress is made from a top layer of 100% rayon (very fine, thin rayon), along with lime green satin, both purchased from Fashion Fabrics Club. The black dotted 100% rayon turned out thinner then I had imagined when I ordered it, therefore I felt it needed a lining. I used a black silk weight powder dry knit from Malden Mills. The jacket is lightweight cotton twill with lycra, lined with a light lime green stretch lining again both from Fashion Fabric Club. This is one of the things I like about Fashion Fabrics Club, putting items together, matching fabrics up to the pattern, doing it all at one time at one place! I actually sit with my Paint/Photo program open laying the pictures of the fabrics together, matching them up, deciding what goes where. This works most of the time, occasionally the colors from the fabrics will be slightly off.
Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
On the dress, I made two alterations and/or design changes. As mentioned previously I opted to line the dress. The lining is a repeat of the dress, attached at the armhole, the neckline (yoke), and the bodice tie front. The lining side seams and hem are separate from the dress, giving the feeling of two dresses, one laid inside the other. The second design change I made was with the armholes, which since I lined the dress I could have even done differently than I did. The pattern uses purchased bias binding on the armholes, putting the binding on the inside of the dress. I decided it would give me a chance to add that punch of lime green just a little more! I cut bias pieces from the lime green satin scraps, bound the armholes, flipping the binding to the outside of the dress for visibility. I personally found problems with the yoke and the pattern instructions. The directions have you flip the second (inside) layer of the yoke to the inside, press up bottom hem allowance, then stitch from the outside (top stitching) catching the backside yoke as stitching. I believe part of my issue was that darn satin! It was entirely too slippery to complete as the instructions suggested. I trimmed the hem allowance with pinking shears, pressed up, then I hand stitched the yoke inside down (together). I ended up doing more hand stitching on this dress then I’ve done in a long time. I also hemmed the rayon fabric (top fabric) of the dress by hand as I felt if gave a better appearance then a machine stitch.
On the jacket, the only change I made was to add the lining to the ruffled sleeve portion of the jacket.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
This is another Simplicity Girls Plus pattern I would definitely recommend. Technically, I finished the dress within a day, except I decided to hand stitch the hem. The jacket took even less time, with the only hand sewing being the buttons we had chosen.
Tips:
This definitely needs a fine fabric with a nice drape to give all the front gathers a nice fall instead of a poof. In other words, save the cotton unless it is a fine, thin cotton like a batiste. Use a nice thin interfacing in the yoke, I opted to do a sew in interfacing to make sure I received no bubbling under my satin.
Conclusion:
I am saving this pattern, as I see this might be made again next summer! My dd loves the dress, seems to think it is so much like RTW complete with the lining.
Here is a picture of the back, showing with the jacket on.
The dress without the jacket from the front.
The dress without the jacket from the back.




The shoulder seam next to the shoulder socket is in the right location, but by my neck it is 1 inch to far forward. It is almost as if they tried to do a forward shoulder adjustment in the pattern, but is too much of an adjustment for me. You notice that it is even too full in waist for me, although I like my tops fuller in the waist since I’ve had three kiddos. I did adjust the darts for the right location!

